Bringing home summer

Returning to Albany was a bit of a shock. While I can't take the mountains back with me, I can perhaps recreate some edible memories. Switzerland's summer fruits are apricots, cherries, and berries. I have a particular attachment to apricots because I once worked on an apricot farm for a summer. For several weeks I picked fruit, stirred hot pots of jam, dewormed apricots for schnapps, and cut down nettles surrounding the trees with a scythe.

Apricots are abundant this time of year. These tangy fruit make for delicious sweet-and-sour desserts and jams. The fun of this tart is that it can be modified post-baking to each person's preferences for sweetness and richness. The basic tart is baked without sugar or cream, although both may be served at the end.

I've had versions with an egg custard and versions without; my Swiss friend Fiona's is without. Double the recipe for a large crowd.

Swiss apricot tart:

• 1 package puff pastry (or homemade crust)
• 1 lb apricots
• ~1 cup crushed hazelnuts, almonds, or walnuts
• sugar and unsweetened whipped cream for serving

Assemble as if you are making a pizza: on a cookie tray with short edges, spread out the puff pastry. On top, sprinkle a thin layer of crushed hazelnuts: these add some flavor and soak up the fruit juice, keeping the crust from getting soggy. Slice apricots in half, remove the pit, and arrange insides-facing-up in overlapping rows (pack in the fruit, as it shrinks while cooking). Bake at 400 degrees for 10-20 minutes until fruit is soft and crust has browned. Serve in slices like a square pizza, with sugar and whipped cream at the table. (Homemade whipped cream: simply whisk cold heavy cream in a pre-chilled bowl until stiff.)

Arranging the apricots into rows on top of crushed hazelnuts

Chef Fiona removing the finished tart from the oven

Enjoying the tart with sugar, cream, and tea. It's vacation!

The setting didn't hurt - dinner over Lake Brienz